Since October last year, The Club at the iconic Marina Bay Sands Skypark was taken over by Spago, which launched its Asian debut right here in Singapore.
For those who aren’t familiar with this chain of fine dining restaurants, you’re not alone. But I am very sure that you have heard of the person who owns it – at least.
Does Wolfgang Puck ring a bell?
CUT by Wolfgang Puck at the Marina Bay Sands Shoppes has been known for being one of the top restaurants in Singapore; the celebrity restaurant has received accolade from visitors all around the world!
Likewise, Spago has left traces in the global fine dining landscape. They include Las Vegas, Maui and Istanbul. Every outlet, however, has varying menus that are seasonal, and inherently inspired by environments, as well as cuisines from the local culture.
My visit to Spago was to celebrate a special celebration – my mother’s birthday with 4 other family members. It was the perfect opportunity to find out more about this relatively new establishment that I’ve been very curious about.
Upon reaching the restaurant by the lift, we were greeted by these beautiful ladies from Ukraine at the SkyPark. One of them led us to our table that I’ve reserved for 6.45pm.
Just like my previous visits to fine dining restaurants, arriving just before the sun sets has become a routine because it guarantees a spectacular view of the red azure skies. This is even better when you are 57 levels off the ground!
The restaurant, too, was bathing in the golden hues from the retreating sun.
The design of Spago is a tad different from other fine dining restaurants that I’ve been to; there are two sections – the lounge and alfresco bar for tapas and drinks that is non air-conditioned, and an indoor restaurant for the full dinner service.
The indoor restaurant is further split into two dining halls, where there is a bar that separates them. While making our way to our table, I couldn’t help but notice their floor-to-ceiling white-trimmed windows, wooden floors and floral centrepiece, which featured our national flower.
The decor is so American and I thought I was at Rodeo Drive at Beverly Hills! The atmosphere generated by its interior is stylish, elegant and inviting with classical music played in the background.
Sometimes I wonder if the bottles at the bar are for display or do they actually use it for their concoctions?
The table that we were put at overlooked Gardens By The Bay and the sea beyond, and they had such a calming effect on me.
It was the opposite at the other side though, as the skies transitioned into an intense burst of colour contrast between the red and blue tones. I was amazed by this sight and just had to snap it – just because we don’t regularly dine 57 levels above with this view of the sunset, right?
According to their website, Spago offers “American cuisine with global accents”. This is particularly apparent from certain Asian fusion dishes like ‘Kaya Toast’ [$38++], Hokkaido Scallop Sashimi [$38++] and even Pan Seared Red Snapper Laksa [$58++].
I was drawn to many of them, which is probably the reason why we over-ordered. All of us shared 5 appetisers, 2 mains, 1 side and 1 dessert. I also had a handcrafted cocktail because reviews seem optimistic about them.
Their menus can be found here.
For the bread service, they served multigrain, cranberry, olive ciabatta and French baguette that evening, and all the ladies went straight for the olive ciabatta and cranberry.
We also had a marble slab, where perched atop were unsalted butter and seaweed salted butter in an adorable cylindrical shape.
To start, we had Spago’s signature
Big Eye Tuna Tartare Cones [$36++] with chili aioli, shaved bonito, scallions and masago.
Taste: 5/5
Despite half of us having a sore throat, I insisted on having these because they were highly raved by reviewers at its flagship restaurant. Out of everything we had, this left a deep impression on our minds even after the meal!
This is an absolute MUST ORDER.
Our main concern – the chili aioli was not spicy at all, as the marinade of the fresh tuna cubes was more attuned towards the Japanese palate due to the bonito flakes and massage. Another element that took this dish to another level was the black and white sesame cone; it was so fragrant that I thought that it was served to us straight from the oven!
If this is not adventurous enough for a fusion dish, you’d be shocked at this re-creation of our favourite Singaporean breakfast… the kaya toast!
‘Kaya Toast’ with seared foie gras, pandan-coconut jam, toasted brioche, foir gras-espresso mousse [$38].
Taste: 4/5
I was appalled by how it was plated. This looks nothing like a kaya (pandan-coconut jam) toast with the thin biscuits defying gravity against the foie gras. Nonetheless, I was excited to savour it.
It is usually hard to go wrong with foie gras.
With the kaya jam spread onto the brioche and topped with a slab of foie gras, the whole orchestra was… well, interesting. The hint of kaya was not very strong and I was enjoying the fatty and melt-in-your-mouth texture of the foie gras.
Moreover, the next star of the dish was the espresso mousse, which was a hit amongst the ladies. The coffee flavour was distinct and comforting to coffeeholics.
While saying this, I felt that the toasted brioche wasn’t very crispy, perhaps due to it soaking up the kaya jam. Apparently, this fusion dish has a lot of potential, but it has not reached the mind-blowing stage yet.
Having a thicker slice of brioche may not be the only solution though.
For that night, I wanted something that is leafy and easier for the stomach. My mum doesn’t like Beetroot, so we chose to have the Warm Octopus Salad [$29] with Spanish chorizo, shelling beans, romanesco, gremolata, and red wine reduction.
Taste: 3.5/5
Unfortunately, we were a bit stumped by this “salad” because it was not a bowl of greens that we expected. Although the romanesco (roman cauliflower) was crunchy and octopus was tender, where you need minimal effort to chew, the sides of shelling beans and gremolata were too mushy and watery for my liking.
Some of us felt that they did not match the octopus.
This was an interesting attempt to combine the East (octopus) and West (seasonal vegetables), but it was difficult for us to appreciate. Moreover, the price wasn’t really justified for such a small portion that was easily polished up with four spoonfuls.
Alaskan King Crab Risotto [$42++] with zucchini, confit tomato, squash blossom, garlic and lemon butter.
Taste: 5/5
I wished we had a bigger portion of this because it was so perfect! The risotto is unexpectedly sweet; not sure if they added sugar into it.
Risotto was nutty and not too mushy. It contained delicate cubes of zuchinni that lend a fun crunch to the dish.
The waiter also recommended us to have the Hand Cut Agnolotti [App $32++] with first season sweet corn, mascarpone, sage and parmesan. I was sold when he told me that he felt like he had an orgasm after trying it.
Taste: 3.75/5
Topped with finely grated parmesan, the cute little envelope-shaped agnolotti bursted out with the creamy sweet corn and marscarpone. I wasn’t sure if it is orgasmic, but those who love corn and cheese – I promise you that it will give you that sensation. *winks*
As a seafood lover, this took the back seat after having the Alaskan King Crab Risotto; I don’t like anything corn-flavoured because I prefer it to be all natural – steamed sweet corn cobs are enough for me!
Honey Miso Broiled Black Cod [$62++] with chilled egg noodles, orange chili dressing, black sesame vinaigrette and coriander.
Taste: 4/5
Tender but it ws a bit dry, requires a watery sauce to match. It is also a bit charred on the sides. Cod is sweet by itself and the decorative sauces didn’t really add much value to its taste.
Slow Roasted Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast [$56++] with morel mushrooms, farro, leeks, asparagus, fennel puree, cherries and natural jus.
Taste: 3.5/5
Duck Breast was roasted to perfection and was extremely tender and sweet! The sauces unfortunately was a bit on the salty and oily side and overpowered the juices of the duck when paired together. I also could not taste the cherries. Perhaps a lighter fruity sauce would be a better fit for this dish.
I like the touch of morel mushrooms though, as it is not readily available in Singapore, I believe!
In addition to our mains, we had a side of Caramelised Brussel Sprouts [$18++] because my brother loves it.
Taste: 5/5
I’m obsessed! I don’t usually like brussel sprouts because it has a natural bitter taste to it, but when it is caramelised with some charred sides and topped with small bits of “rice krispies”… Umm, it’s good. This came in a big portion and was pretty filling for five of us.
Handcrafted Cocktail Rough Love with Tanquery No. Ten Gin, Champagne, Shiso Umeshu [$26++].
Taste: 5/5
I am a huge sucker for floral and fruity cocktails, and having one is a no-brainer at Spago because reviewers have raved about them. I was stunned by how it is served in an abnormally large wine glass and contained a huge block of ice cube that lasted throughout our two-hour long meal.
With floral accents and a tangy tinge from the Shiso Umeshu, the name Rough Love may not be the best fit for the cocktail. Nonetheless, it is THE best cocktail I’ve had so far!
Our dinner was not complete without ending on a sweet note. I already had the Salted Caramel Soufflé in mind and it was also a dish that my family and waiter recommended.
Phew for that!
Salted Caramel Soufflé [$24++] with Farmer’s market Fuji apple sorbet.
Taste: 4/5
We all had a good laugh because its appearance looks like a pimply teenager’s face!
I had not much qualms about the soufflé because I haven’t had many; it rose perfectly and had a lightly toasted crisp on the outside, and warm creamy interior. Instead of having sauce to go with it, the red round jelly-like candy that gave it some chewy sweetness and sourness from the Fuji apple sorbet. contrast to the warm souffle.
After having the sorbet, we felt that the Fuji apple sorbet was the star of the dish! It was delightfully sour and rejuvenated our tastebuds after such a filling meal.
On my second visit a few months later, I ordered their Burrata with Caramelised Mission Figs [$29++] with prosciutto di parma, marinated artichokes, arugula, aged balsamic and candied almonds.
Taste: 3/5
This is one starter that was interesting, but not one that would satisfy everyone’s palette if they are not into figs or a soft fluffy cheese like burrata.
I was surprised by the fresh figs incorporated as I expected dried ones. This is a good thing. The whole composition was a blend of varying textures and flavours of sweet, salty and sour (from the aged balsamic).
But, this dish is not something that we would order again as it is slightly too exotic for us.
From the menu, you’d probably be put off by how expensive a Laksa can be at Spago because it’s priced at $58++. Nonetheless, it is not just any ordinary one! It contains Pan Seared Alaskan Halibut – a fish that is not commonly found in Asia and the head chef has just imported it. I am quite lucky to try it as it is not a staple ingredient in Singaporean restaurants.
Taste: 4/5
This is a laksa that is so unique.
Prawns and fish cakes are usually added, but it was wonderful to have a fresh cut of fish inside! The halibut was firm and had a thin layer of crust. Everyone at the table raved about it.
I loved the concept of having fried rice noodles instead of the thick bee hoon, as I prefer thin noodles. The thinner the better! Basil is also included to add a “Vietnamese” twist to it. As for the broth, chilli lovers may be displeased by how “mild” its spiciness is. However, I’m happy about it since I am sensitive to spicy foods. The level of heat was just right.
My only gripe is how little the soup was given. Is it due to aesthetic purposes? If the broth was poured enough just to cover the noodles (keeping in mind the noodles to broth ratio), everything would have been perfect.
For our other main, somehow we keep gravitating towards Spago’s risottos! This time, Bamboo Clam Risotto [$52++] was on their menu! Yes Bamboo Clam.
Taste: 4.5/5
I’m glad to say that Spago whips up one of the best risottos I’ve tried. Besides the main star (bamboo clam), it consisted of crispy house cured guanciale, white wine clam broth, wild marjoram, parsley and parmesan.
I looked forward to the clams as I usually have them as a whole during Chinese New Year! But for this dish, the clams were chopped into small and manageable slices, which was great.
I’m not too sold on the guanciele though. It was just like adding fried bacon to a pasta, that was a no-no to me. Totally mismatched.
For our side dish, we couldn’t resist the Black Truffle Golden Yukon Potato Puree [$24++] because… BLACK TRUFFLE!
Taste: 3.5/5
The mash was fabulous. Made with Golden Yukon Potatoes that aren’t found anywhere in Asia, it was extremely smooth, creamy and not too thick that it sticks to your throat.
Despite it being so, we were more unimpressed by the fact that the truffle was only found at the top of the mash. Its flavour was gone after a few seconds – i.e. the first few scoops! Felt a tad cheated. Sniffs.
A meal at Spago is not complete without their handcrafted cocktails, of course. After being smitten with Rough Love, I was eager to try others like this one – Pandora’s Box [$26++] with Hendrick’s, St Germain, Elderflower and Lemon.
Taste: 3/5
It had a light tinge of elderflower, but was nothing special. It was a tad too sweet for me.
I should have had Rough Love on replay to prepare for a rough night ahead.
BUNNY’S VERDICT:
WILL BE BACK AGAIN! Great for couples and families for special celebrations.
BUNNY RECOMMENDS: Tuna Tartare Cones, ‘Kaya Toast’, Honey Miso Broiled Black Cod, Laksa, Rough Love Cocktail
RATING
Overall Taste: 4.3/5 More hits than misses for food, but I’ll definitely be back for their cocktails. This is a place for special occasions. While each dish was priced quite high, the quality of the food is not compromised as they were novel interpretations, which took us on a fun dining experience. My mum thought the food tasted better than Justin Quak’s Sky on 57, which I also visited before. I think each has its own strengths.
Ambience: 4.5/5 The atmosphere was very romantic at night Almost perfect for any special occasion with family members or loved one. I like how the restaurant has both round tables and seats for two. Nevertheless, I found that the arrangement of the tables could be better because not all had a view of the Marina Bay, or Gardens by The Bay.
Service: 5/5 Stellar. Waiters and waitresses were exceptionally-trained. Probably the best I’ve experienced at a fine dining restaurant. They were polite, all-smiles whenever I walk past them. Furthermore, they were eager to help us take photos and kept on refilling our water, and took note of my request on having a birthday wish on the dessert.
Our waiter, in particular, was helpful in describing the dishes and asked us another for another round of breads after the two of our appetisers came. Moreover, he returned my sunglasses just before I took the lift down. Very thankful for that.
Spago
Address: 10 Bayfront Ave, Sands SkyPark, Tower 2 Level 57,
Singapore 018956
Phone:6688 9955
Opening Hours:
– Dining Room
Lunch: 12pm – 2:30pm
Dinner:
Sunday – Thursday, 6pm – 10pm
Friday & Saturday, 6pm – 11pm
– Terrace Lounge
Breakfast Buffet: 7am – 10:30am (S$43++ per adult | S$22++ per child)
Drinks & Bites: 12pm – Late
DRESS CODE
Dining Room: Business casual
(Long Pants, Collared Shirt, Covered Shoes)
Terrace: Smart casual
(Please refrain from wearing pool & gym attire, robes and hotel slippers)
Business Casual after 8pm
AGE RESTRICTION
Dining Room: Over 12 years old and to be accompanied by an adult
Terrace (after 9pm): Over 18 years old
Directions:
- Alight at Esplanade (Circle Line) or Bugis (DT Line, EW Line) station. It will be a 10- minute walk from both stations.
- Parking available at Marina Bay Sands Shoppes
Hopping out…
ANDREA THE #FOREVERHUNGRY BUNNY
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All orders are done at their counter.
BUNNY MUNCHIES 